Egypt – Day 11: Temple of Edfu - Now Viewing the World

The Temple of Edfu is one of many awe-inspiring temples we had the pleasure of visiting. Situated in the charming city of Edfu, this temple holds a significant place in Egyptian history and captivates visitors with its grandeur and mystical allure.

To reach the temple, we hopped on a horse-drawn carriage ride from our boat, alongside the waters of the majestic Nile. The experience was not only enjoyable but also added a touch of romance to our adventure.

Our expedition wouldn’t have been complete without our exceptional guide, Omar, who accompanied us throughout our temple visits. With his vast knowledge and charismatic storytelling, Omar brought the rich history of each place to life, making our journey all the more immersive and enjoyable.

As we wandered through the Temple of Edfu, it was hard to fathom that just 250 years ago, this very area lay buried beneath the sands, with a village atop its hidden treasures. The French did an incredible job excavating the area, revealing the astonishing ancient Egyptian architecture and hidden wonders that lay beneath it.

An intriguing aspect we discovered was that only the gods and their families were allowed to reside within the temples. However, a priest would have lived in close proximity to the temple to fulfill his daily duties with utmost devotion.

Edfu itself is a modest village, yet it gained fame for being the site where the Temple of Horus was erected. The name “Edfu” translates to the “city of killing,” referring to a historic conflict lasting 140 years between Horus and his uncle Set. The temple was built to commemorate Horus’ victory during the time when the Greeks held control over Egypt.

Speaking of the Greeks, their influence over Egypt was profound and enduring, lasting approximately 300 years until the Romans assumed power. In 332 BC, Alexander the Great arrived in Egypt and cleverly presented himself as an Egyptian, convincing the locals of his rightful claim to be the pharaoh. Surprisingly, the people bought it and this strategy enabled him to gain control over the land.

Following Alexander’s death, his confidant Ptolemy adopted the same approach, declaring himself pharaoh to the Egyptian people. Ptolemy then allocated Egypt and Syria to Alexander’s other friends, a strategic move that secured his reign over Egypt, granting him control of the Nile and the vital wheat export. This began the Ptolemaic Dynasty which lasted for 275 years.

On our tour, we observed a fascinating structure known as the Divine Birth House or “mumeeze.” This unique building served to legitimize the kingship and the Edfu temple reliefs portray scenes of the king symbolically drinking milk from Isis to solidify his status as the ruler.

While the kings and queens were alive, they were considered the embodiment of Horus on Earth. However, after their passing, they were revered as Osiris, Horus’ father.

The walls of the temple bear the scars of history, with scratches indicating attempts by early Christians to erase scenes depicting the gods. These acts were driven by a desire to suppress belief in these ancient Egyptian deities.

Impressively, the temple boasts towering pylon entrances, standing at a remarkable height of 118 feet and constructed from sandstone. Beyond the gateways lie nine magnificent chambers, each dedicated to a different god or goddess, such as Ra, Isis, and Hathor. This remarkable arrangement was designed to appease the diverse spiritual preferences of the Egyptian people.

Within the temple, we discovered that it was not solely a place of worship but also housed schools and hospitals. A small room we explored served as a library, where teachers selected papyrus scrolls for their lessons. These precious scrolls were carefully stored within the room, safeguarding the knowledge they contained. Education held great significance to the Egyptians.

As we wandered through the temple’s halls, we couldn’t help but notice the mysterious black ceiling. There are a couple of theories to consider. Some suggest that the dark hue resulted from centuries of cook fires and other sources of smoke within the temple. Another intriguing possibility is that the Egyptians began using Greek materials to paint the temple, but alas, these materials were ill-equipped to withstand the scorching Egyptian heat, leading to the unfortunate blackening effect.

Within the temple’s sacred confines, we stumbled upon an intriguing chamber dedicated to healing. This medical center of the ancient world was adorned with the fragrant essence of essential oils and perfumes. Imagine the aromas that once filled the air, soothing and revitalizing those who sought solace within its walls. It’s a testament to the Egyptians’ belief in the power of aromatic therapy and their dedication to the well-being of their people.

Back in the sanctuary, we found a replica boat, skillfully crafted by the French. This magnificent vessel, though a mere replica, played a crucial role during festivals. It served as the carrier for the golden statue of Hathor, the revered goddess associated with love, beauty, and joy. As the boat traversed the temple, the air buzzed with excitement and devotion, celebrating the presence of the deity during these special occasions.